It's been a little while since I've been even near a town, let alone a computer, so excuse my tardiness in blogging. It's been a beautiful week, gorgeous sunshine and all that.

Mark and I left for Ko Phangan on Sunday and arrived the following afternoon. Stayed at some really pretty bungalows just up from Had Yao, and spent two days swimming and walking about.... Was nice, went and visited the last place I stayed at, and surprisingly they remembered me! Ended up staying there for the whole arvo and blew about 1000 drinking, smokin and chatting with Boi. Was a good afternoon though. Next day we came to Ko Tao, and have been in Tanote bay for the last 4 days or so... What day is it today?

Been snorkeling - which was absolutely amazing - so many fish, shapes, colours and ohhh the coral.... Was really clear the first time we went out. I loved it, once you're used to breathing through that little tube of plastic. Had a few spliffs and floated out in the bay for hours just watching them all zip about in and out of their little homes... Yapping to each other, munching on coral.
Went out again in a different part of the bay the same day and it wasn't nearly as clear, but still good, swimming past different bits of the coral that you recognize, like the one in the centre of the bay that looks like a brain. So nice. The next day (or the one after that, can't remember) we hired a kayak in the morning and paddled around to Ao Luk, which was a bit of an adventure in itself, but the bay there as well is amazing the fish aren't at all afraid and will swim straight up to your mask to check you out as much as you are with them. The paddling around there was a little bit hairy at times - especially when the wind picked up and we were trying to navigate through two rocks reasonably close to the shore and where it was still deep and rocky/corally. I kept getting images of the boat flipping and being washed up against that - OUCH! But still it didn't happen and it was a heap of fun.

Tomorrow we may go over to Ko Lanta, which sounds very nice, but again I doubt there will be much chance to email or blog. Still I haven't really been doing that much, swimming, lazing on the beach, starting to look black again.... Ahh well. Drinking too much beer & spliffing on.... that's pretty much been the extent of my last week. Not that it's a bad thing.... Can't say I miss work or Melbourne's cold.

Ok, so two days now back in Bangkok, and sometimes even this can be too much. The great Ko San Rd - forget about sleep and relaxing! But tonight it's back on a bus (thankfully Thailand is gonna be better than Vietnam...) and head down to ko Phangan.

Met up with Mark yesterday, and everything is the 'same same, but different', still it's great to have an old close mate around, and also someone to talk to again that knows me. My Australian reality and life sometimes feels like a dream, or at least another world away. I'm looking forward to leaving the city behind again though, and heading for some more sun, surf and chill out time on the white sands of the islands.

Have no plans other than to do as close to nothing while down there, so don't expect high excitment from ye ol' blog site for a few weeks, although I'll still be keeping you up to date on what's going on, but I'm sure it won't be much. After only a few days since I last wrote though, there isn't much to say. Have restrained myself as far as shopping since back, have had a load of catch up time with Mark and was up all night talking. Aside from that though same ol', same ol'

So until something worth noting - including a few envy rasing words, there's no more from me. Have had enough of computers and internet cafe's for now.... Need to have some down time myself.

Am back in Bangkok after a delerious train ride..... Whenever I decide I need an early night, I seem to be up until all hours of the morning - but what the hell, I'm still on holidays!!

I met up with Ramon again - unexpectedly - in Chiang Mai, I'd already been drinking with Stephen and Miguel that day, and so was a little tipsy, as you can tell from the previous blog. But was so good to see an 'old face' that I went out with Ramon and Miguel to what I think is the only bar open all night in Chiang Mai - a place called 'Spice' bar or spicey... something like that...

Anyway stayed up all night chatting with Ramon (gotta love those english accents!!) and then also awake all day as I had to check out of my room. Can't believe I was awake for well over 24 hours, but seemed to manage it ok until I got on the train. Walking down the train station I started to hear and see things that weren't there - my sleep deprivation hallucinations were kicking in - away we go! Thankfully I was able to get on the train early and my seat (which was later to fold out to a bed) was extremely comfortable. I promptly fell asleep for all of 1/2 an hour and then was awake until about 10 that night.... About 36 hours of being awake on only 1/2 an hour sleep can't be good for you, but then it can't be all bad, as I'm still here alive and kicking! Plus the added treat of the hallucinations made the train ride that much more interesting!

Chiang Mai was pretty damn good! The night in Lam Shang national park was cool, and I dunno if I blogged about it already, but I got a lift into Tak bus station the next morning courtesy of the park rangers. Saved me walking and hitching the rest of the way into town with all those god damed bags!!

I met up with a Spanish guy on my second night there - Miguel and had some interesting and intelligent conversation which was a change from me talking to myself for over a week... Not that I'm bad company, but I was starting to wonder if I was on my way to maddness.

Decided to go and check out the night market with him that night, and ended up buying a few things, and yet more CD's.... Definitely have not got more room for more - unless I buy a new CD case... and then where the hell am I gonna pack that?

Next day we met up for breakky and met another English guy - Stephen (thankfully not the x Steve) who'd arrived in Chiang Mai that morning. We all headed off to the Bo Sang market together and I again ended up buying some more things.... Just a new purse though which I was greatly in need of as the other one was well and truly cactus, and a parasol made from wax paper - coz I really need one..... The woman i bought the purse from bargained herself down from 55 baht to 40, without any prompting from me, but I think she though I was a little strange when I insisted she put my change in the new purse before handing it to me so that it was good luck.... Took about 5 minutes to explain what I wanted her to do, and then she pissed her self laughing at me.

So after that it was the evening when I met Ramon, and on the next day keeping him awake so that I had company until I caught my train. Hope he didn't mind, but I thought it was good, and enjoyed having and meeting up with such nice guy.

Cannot think of what to write - have drunk too much cheap cheap blessed beer....

Ahhhh... So glad I am no longer in Mae Sot!! What a debacle that was! And the only good thing to come of it was that I got to cross the border to Myanmar - for lunch - and then back, gave me an extra month on my visa, and lightned my purse 500baht, but what's that between friends really??

Am now in Chiang Mai... but there's a little inbetween that I have to tell...

I tried to go to Umphaeng wildlife sanctuary on Monday. Got up early and was having breakfast when 'Mr Oom' (later we shall rename this little yellow character...) asked what I had planned for the day. I told him I was going to catch a Shong Thaew to Umphaeng, and although I was only going for the day was there anything that he'd suggest I see or do?? He smiled, and said 'no, you need more time to be able to see it all' Fair enough said I to myself, the book says it is a lovely drive there, I am sure I will at least see some trees and things, so it won't be a complete dead loss.

So off I went, it was about 9am- early when you're supposed to be on holidays! Mr Oom waved his good bye with barely a smile - something I was beginning to wonder if he was capable of doing. I walked to the Shong Thaew stop, and yes! I was just in time for the 9.30 departure to Umphaeng! YAY!! Then I checked the timetable.... ever hour the shong theaw's left, the last Shong Thaew back from Umphaeng was at 12 midday - effectively meaning that I had already missed the last bus, as the sign also courteously advised me that the trip was 4 hours. VERY disappointed, as the only other reason (other than crossing the border for extra visa time) that I had come to Mae blasted Sot, was to see this goddamned wildlife sanctuary!! The only other way I could get there was with a trek - I'm not really built for trekking, and the shortest trek you can do is four days - not enough time for this mucking about, the smallest group is four, and even if I stacked on the punds, I am sure Mr Oom wouldn't have made allowances.

So dejected and downcast I headed back to the guesthouse... thinking up other things I could possibly do to pass the time in this horrid little backwater of a place.Thinking of nothing other than to leave and head back to Tak, and the National park there, I arrived at the guesthouse again, to come up against Mr Oom again..... Urrrgh. He looked at me, with no surprise. I said to him - 'I tried to go to Umphaeng, but I had already missed the last Shong Thaew back to Mae Sot, so I couldn't go.... It's disappointing, but instead I think I will leave for Tak, and go to see the Lam Sang national park instead' He gave me a huge smile (I almost fell over in surprise!) and said 'yes, you were too late to go.... ahhh..... maybe you should go to Tak' Who did this man think he was??? Mr Miyagi???? The Mr Miyagi of Mae Sot and Umphaeng! Bloody fuckin hell!! Wax on wax fuckin off..... He had already know I was too late before I'd even left.... He was no help at all and the only time he was nice was when I told him I was leaving... The prick definitely didn't like me from the moment he saw me, and I have no idea why... Ah well fuck it, am no longer there.

So I got on the next minibus and asked that they drop me at the entrance to the Lam Shang National Park instead of taking me all the way to Tak. They kindly obliged and I walked and hitched the remaining miles to the actual park. Well worth the effort - and not only to be away from the all knowing, all seeing Mr Miyagi.

The park was amazing, I had walked for maybe all of half an hour before I was picked up and given a life the rest of the way. Beautiful jungle, mountains.... ahhh finally some forest. It was about 6 bucks entry, and then I hired a tent to camp in for the night. The rangers put it up for me, gave me a sleeping bag, and told me where everything was. Even organised my dinner and breakfast for the next morning!!

I went for a walk around the park, saw so many different kinds of butterflies, waterfalls, and just forest/jungle. Was great (despite the blisters), and finally I felt at ease again, not like I was infringing on someones space, as I had felt at the #4 guesthouse... bloody Mr Miyagi....

That night at about 6, my dinner arrived - straight to my tent door!! Then I settled in, content listening to the sounds of the waterfall I was beside, and my CD walkman.... gotta have some creature comforts! I had a little trouble getting to sleep as I couldn't stop thinking about the creatures creeping around outside my tent door, plus the ground was a little hard. But eventually I dropped off, and all was well. I dreamt I was training dogs - some as small as ink dots, and that they all loved me... Weird.

Next morning I woke with the dawn, although due to the mountains, it wasn't too early. Before I'd even had time to say 'Jack Spratt' (as I do say that every morning on waking) my breakfast had arrived, again straight to my tent door!! Amazing! After my breakfast of rice, soup and egg it was off for a shower and to pack ready for the trek out of the park and back to the main road to catch another minibus to Tak.

After packing I headed up to the park headquarters to pay for the night, was given a 100baht discount as I didn't need a receipt, and then told that if I waited for 5 minutes I could have a free lift to the Tak bus station!! Sooo good!

So I got into Tak, took a bus here to Chiang Mai, and since then have had a check around, found myself a place to stay and had dinner at some Thai girlfriend pick up bar. Kinda wierd, but the service was good....

For the next 3 days or so I shall be having a look around here - no doubt more temples - and then it's back to bangkok to meet Mark. A friend again!!

So here I am in Mae Sot, or Mae Sod, depending on which sign you read, that is if you can find a sign in English!

I arrived here yesterday and had a look about, settled blah blah blah. This place really feels like a frontier town, and I feel like the only white guy here. I am dressing conservativly to attract as little attention as possible, but I think my blonde hair and pale skin is giving me away all the same - I may be tanned, but not that tanned. Still, after Vietnam and the other places I have been getting stared at seems to be the norm!

Today I walked to the Myanmar/Thai border to get some more time on my visa here. So much for it not costing anything... but that wasn't a problem, cost the same as if I had've tried for an extension at the immigration office, and at least I was certain to get the amount of time I wanted!

Anyway, the information at the guest house said that it was 'a quick 10 minute walk to the border' - MY ARSE IT IS! It took me well over an hour to get there, it rained on the way and luckily as it started to really piss down a Saamlaew stopped an gave me a lift the rest of the way - for free. Which was really nice, even though it was only about another 1km.

So I got there, passed through border control/passport control and headed off over the friendship bridge to Myanmar. Not much to say about it, another border town, much the same as Mae Sot. Had lunch there and a smoke and then headed back across the bridge to Thailand again! That took most of the day... or the better part of it anyway.

By the time I got back to Thailand it was raining in earnest, and I decided to catch a Saamlaew back to Mae Sot instead of attempting the long distance trek back on foot. Got here ok, not much to say about that....

Heading to the wildlife sancuary tomorrow, then possibly to Chiang Mai or Kanchaniburi... dunno yet and probably wont until I get on the bus!

What a trip! I left on the train very early on Tuesday morning, bound for Sukothai, 3rd class sitting with all the other Thai people. Don't think there was another westerner on my carriage, but what the hell, why not travel as the people do when you're in their country??

The train ride was going to be a bit of a hard one from the start. I was supposed to meet with a guy I had met at the travel agents when booking my ticket, that night for a few beers, but he didn't show, so I went to the pub alone. Still like I said when travelling alone, you're never alone for too long. I met a few guys, one English (love an English accent), and the other an Israelli, fresh outta Aus! Chatted with them for who knows how long, the Israelli left after a while and I sat chatting to Simon the English guy until the wee hours of the morning - not a good idea considering I had to be up at 5.30am to finish packing and catch my train.

The actual train ride though was pretty good, I hardly slept as there was too much to look at and too much to think about - what would Sukothai be like, would I be able to find my way there from Phuksanulok? What was I gonna have to eat? Blah blah blah - your mind just keeps going sometimes doesn't it?

We past a few enormous golden buddahs set into mountainsides, the question of food resolved itself as a little thai guy came up the isle offering shrink wrapped packages of rice and something else. I chose the one that LOOKED like it had bacon and something else with the rice. The stuff that looked like crumbled up nuts turned out to be spicey something with chillies, and the 'bacon' turned out to be SWEET SAUSAGE - YUCK!!, but the rice, thankfully was still rice! I ate the most of it, under the scrutiny of the other Thai pasasengers, and when I put aside the 'sausage/bacon' they pointed and with hand signals asked why. I said it didn't taste good, they didn't understand and asked if it smelt bad, I said no it tasted funny, and screwed up my nose. I think they gave up on me then, coz they all went back to their conversations, with the occasional glance at me.
So here I am in Sukothai. What a lovely place the old city was. I was there yesterday, and cycled around - without the use of my map which I couldn't read - for about 2 hours. Yep, me on a bike, I can tell you that it was a white knuckled ride with memories of my last stack clearly in my mind. But thankfully these ruined cities don't have too much traffic and I was able to get about with barely an obstacle!
So I rode around, quite a pleasant day. Saw all of the main city, and then decided to check out the other parts, outside of the city walls. I got hopelessly lost! I rode around in circles - found an operating monastry, another temple that I didn't know existed, and I don't think was on my map, and also found the old kiln sites - which was a bit of a windfall as I was wanting to see those before I became really frustrated about not knowing where I was.
Anyway, there is one temple, the main Oooh La La temple, that I couldn't find. Wat Si Cham, or something like that. I gave up in the end, content to find my way home again.
So I did actually make it back to New Sukothai in one piece, rested for the rest of the afternoon, met my new room mate a Japanese guy - and played solitare, obviously by myself. Also met a French guy, who restored my faith in the french people, he being the first that I have met that was really nice, and not at all arrogant.... Maybe he wasn't REALLY french - Ha ha, just kiddin'.

Today I took myself off to Kamphaeng Phet, which is another ruined city, but I liked this one much better. Sukothai is a ruined city that has been spruced up and fixed here and there, so you don't need to much imagination to see what it WAS like, but then there is no feeling of being lost in time, or that you are looking in on another place far removed from today.

Anyway this place today (Kamphaeng Phet) had all that - and more! It was like stepping into another world - completely quiet, and almost part of nature again. The paths were being reclaimed by the creeping fingers of vines that were crawling across the ground, the temples, chedis, and buddahs all had such a feeling of peace, and felt as though they were still in the era that they were built. All you could hear when you were walking around was the thwack thwack of your own flip-flops, accompanied by the soft sound of the insects (which I might ad have had an absolute feed on me, I have bites EVERYWHERE, and I do mean - EVERYWHERE!) It was absolutely amazing - loved it - SUWAI MAK!
So that took the best part of today. After here I need to go back to my guesthouse and start with the dreaded tasks - washing (by hand of course!) and packing the ol' back pack yet again. Whoever invents the self packing pack is bound to make a mint!

Thailand, Thailand, Thailand....
The country where I want to be!
Either trekking or camping, or just watching TV
Thailand, Thailand, Thailand....
Thailand is for me

OK Enough Monty Python eh? But still it is soo nice to be back. Here it's so much easier to get around than compared to Vietnam. Still Vietnam did have some beautiful, amazing and wonderful points. But I do like it here - and Cambodia - a lot better!

So what've I been up to since my arrival? Finding a place to stay was a bit of a chase, I got a taxi from the airport (I know I know, extravigant, and possibly unnecessary) and told them I wanted to stay at Bonny's guesthouse - somewhere I picked from the lonely plonker due to the dorm rooms and cheaper rates than My House. We drove around for about 2 hours - at lead\st the air con was on and working though.... Looking, looking, looking, could not find it anywhere. In the end I ended up getting outta the taxi, giving him my Krup Kum Ma Ka, and heading off down the Ko San Rd in search of diggs. Found a cheapish single room at Prakorbs House - sounds like an indian owned place, but nup! All Thais.

After checking in there I decided to go in search of the elusive Bonny's Guesthouse, just incase it was tucked away somewhere you couldn't get to by taxi, or with a rucksack on your back. But still no luck, maybe it's like a magic shop in a Terry pratchet novel? Who know's? All I know is if you can't find it they mustn't do very good business..

The first full day here I got all my boring stuff outta the way. Posted a load of stuff home - I am going to have soo many presents for me, from me, when I get back to Aus - another reason to go back at some stage, plus I've got all my family Christmas shopping done and it should arrive in time. Checked out visas, and was quoted by one TAT 7050 for an Indian and epal visa - that works out at about 250 Aussioe dollars! So I said 'Bang Bang!' and left. Since then I have found out I can get my nepal visa at the airport in kathmandu for about US$15, and I will organise my India one from there.

On Tuesday I plan to head north to Sukothai - the original capital, from the 13th centuray. Will spend a little over a week there as there are also a few national parks and sanctuaries in the area as well that I want to take a squiz at. Also seeing that i will be knoda close to Mae Sot, I will cross the boarder into Myanmar, or not quite, and back to Thailand in order to get my visa for here extended. That means I don't need to fill out any forms, I only cross over and then straight back, don't need to go all the way into Myanmar, and it costs me nadda radda than 500baht. Easy peasy! Japanesey, lemon squeezy, dirty kneesy, have a sneezy!

Today I checked out the National museum, which is bloody enormous. Heaps of interesting things from artifacts that date back about 4500 years ago, art works like sculpture, paintings, decorative plates 'n' stuff. Also there are a few theories on where the Thai people come from, only to be concluded that they come from Thailand, always have and always will.... Kinda strange that they questioned it... Ha ha. Still good to know that they know where they're at! he buildings - about 5 in all, are surrounded by lovely gardens, manicured trees and lawns, and sweet smelling flowers.

Am quite enjoying travelling by myself - the first time since I stepped off the plan in Bangkok all the way back in June. Took a bit of getting used to after Sinead left for Aus, but now I am enjoying the extra freedom. Still travelling with Sinead was good to, I have made a close friend - in really such a short space of time, and will definitely catch up with her again in the future somwehere.

Met a cool german chick the other night, who told me all about Sukothai, which she'd just gotten back from. Chatted with her for hours over a few beers, talked about everything from travel to politics to the meaning of life, destiny and everything. She headed up to Kanchaniburri the next day, hopefully she won't be eaten by tigers. But before we parted ways, did the old email swap, and I will definitely go visit her if I am ever in Dusseldorf! So although I am on my own, there is always someone around to share a beer with and have a chat and a laugh!

Life is all good!

Where was I up to? I think I have blogged about the lovely Ha Long Bay - where the dragon went down to help fight the enemy...

So it's only the last few days that I need to catch you up on. Let me see... Sinead left for Bangkok on Monday morning and it was a little sadder to see her go that I'd expected. Still it looks like I will be meeting her again shortly as I am off back to Bangkok on Thursday morning - thank goodness I have had enough of Vietnam. Plus she left her new shoes in my bag so I need to get them back to her.

The Monday was reasonably quiet, I changed hotels to a place that has dorm rooms - my first dorm experience so far, and it's not that bad - pretty much as I expected really. Although it's a shared sex dorm... But that doesn't really make a hell of a lot of difference, it's not as though you're about to walk around naked either way.

I booked my ticket to Bangkok, sorted out my cash, had a walk around the lake and generally chilled by myself. Am starting to appreciate the time to myself.

Still after saying that I did catch up with Sebatian the German guy we met in Nha Trang for dinner, and made plans with him for today to do some touristy things together. Plus he owed me a beer and wanted a haircut as he doesn't trust the Vietnamese to do it the way he wants...

So I went around to his this morning and trimmed him up - sweat my arse off the whole time as it is baking here, not as humid as some places but still damn hot. We were out on the porch right in the sun... Urrgh very warm and sweaty.

After that we took a moto to the Fine Arts museum in Hanoi - really nice sculpture, so glad I went. Wasn't as impressed with the paintings, although there were a few good'uns that stood out to me. Spent a good few hours there looking around. They had stuff dating back over 3000 years, pottery, weapons etc. And of course things right up to this modern day. Really enjoyed that, the sculpture especially.

After that we walked to the botanical gardens here, which I'm sorry to say, are a bit naff. The small forest was pretty good, but there wasn't really much to them and I dunno, maybe I expect too much sometimes?

After that it was lunch and a lie down.

More people have moved into the dorm today, noisy boys! But after tomorrow night I will be outta there, and Vietnam. Wish I could be sooner, but due to visas etc, and meeting up with Mark, was better for me to stay an extra few days. Won't have much to write for a while as have to go about the boring things - develop film, get batteries, pack etc... Nothing really worth writing about.

Ha Long bay was gorgeous, and aside from the rain we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves! The bus trip there was pretty much like all other bus trips have been on - couldn't sleep, or get comfortable, and prayed for it to be over about an hour after boarding. But we arrived safely, and unlike some other people we've met, arrived crash free!!

After having our lunch at a crazy little Vietnamese restaurant in Ha Long city we were off to the pier, on foot. A 40 minute walk while everyone else passed us by on the air con busses!! Ah well, free exercise, and a chance to have a look along the beach there.

We finally got to the pier and waited another 1/2 hour for the guide to get our tickets and board the boat.... People were getting shitty everywhere, and to make matters worse, we were surrounded by god damn Americans!! Ha ha. Still we did actually get to the boat, and we may have been 2 hours behind schedule, and it looking like rain, but we were finally on our way!! Yay for us. The whole way through the walk to the pier I had some Mexican guy - Omar - trying to pick me up. I mentioned that I was meeting a boyfriend in a few weeks to get him off my case, by as Sinead says - 'God loves a tryer!'

The bay is gorgeous, dotted with over 2000 islets that stand out of the water like the tops of mountains. The boat weaves it's way through the islands and after a few hours you arrive at some caves. Can't remember the names of them, but they're pretty. We jumped off the boat onto a rickety pier, and proceeded down the path to steps going up the side of one of the islands.

After climbing to the top, the stairs entered the island so that you were actually inside there, surrounded by stalactites and mites. We walked through a number of different caves. Two of the American girls freaked out because of claustrophobia and shouted at the guide and then left... Ha ha, was good for a laugh.

After the caves we got back on the boat and I fell asleep reasonably soon after. We'd been woken up REALLY early that morning (Saturday morning mind you!!) by Section 4 government radio. Which starts at about quarter to 6, and goes until about 7 or so. It was some Vietnamese guy reading communist propaganda and playing music for the people who start work early, and for those that don't??? Well why aren't we out there working for the rise of communism? Huh, what's with us wanting to sleep in on a Saturday morning??!

So I missed a lot of the islands that we sailed past as I was snoozing on deck. We arrived at Cat Ba island and let off the people that had elected to sleep in a hotel there, we had decided to sleep on the boat. The we sailed to a little bay around the corner and put down the anchor for the night. Then it was time for dinner, more rice and stuff, and a few beers as we watched the moon rise overhead.

After dinner we went night swimming, and yes it was a quiet night, but a lotta fun. At about 11or so I was completely shagged and went onto the deck of the other boat to sleep. Omar was still doing his best, but thankfully he was sleeping on the other boat - thank God for small mercies!! After dozing for a while Sinead came by and said I should head to the cabin to avoid being eaten alive by the mozzies. I took her advice, and am glad that I did as it pissed with rain in the early hours of the morning.

Next morning it was back to the pier for lunch and then back on the bus to Hanoi. Wasn't a bad time, glad I went, but wish the sun had've come with us, and not the Mexican.