I guess I need my hand slapped again for being a bad blogger, but hey I'm too far away for that, so you'll just have to deal wiv it! Init??

The wedding I went to with Aaron and Marie, weekend before last, was pretty damn fine, a bit of fun. I was good and stayed clothed, although I did have a good go at the red and a few ales.. I also stayed off the floor, so I did well on both counts. It was a bit strange not knowing anyone there, and I felt a little like the obligatory old man that no-one knows but everyone seems to have at a wedding, only thing being that I'm the wrong sex and not quite old enough... Still it was an evening well spent!

The day after Aaron and I took a long walk in the country side, wandering down small lanes and past signs for 'public walking paths' that pointed off into nowhere, and where there wasn't a path to be seen, not even a little old goat track... After our walk Aaron and Marie both came down to Hastings to drop me home, and see mine and Marks new flat. We managed to polish off a whole slab that evening, which considering the effort we all made at the wedding the night before, was not a bad at all.

It was also Halloween, and every now and then we'd get a knock at the door from a ghost or witch asking for a treat. That was quite novel, and one mass murderer - Michael I think from Friday the 13th... or Halloween, asked me to say 'G'day' after noting I was Aussie - still had to pass out lollies to them though. But we did have quite a few left over and I've slowly been making my way through them since then.

On the Monday after I started a new contract - temp still - for the AIDS Alliance, in Brighton. It's a little closer to the station, and a hell of a lot more interesting than the Future media position I started with. Am enjoying it a lot, and hopefully it will continue onto bigger and brighter things - like more work. But in any case I have a few different irons in the fire, so to speak, and I shall wait and see which of them heat up first before going on too much about any of them.

I've also been in touch with a few more of my old high school mates, which is very weird. We're supposedly catching up this weekend/Friday night, if we can coordinate it. It'll be a strange thing indeed. My mate Ben (hugely tall guy who could make you laugh all day without trying) is now married and dropping by with his wife. I've also been told that he's a born again Christian... I want to know when the first time he was christian was... Janelle Marden, ahh the memories of her and that group, coming by to my house warming party and setting fire to the rug in the lounge room.... What fun days! Tim Bradshaw - my high school crush for about 2 years running - and of course Em... And anyone else that Nell or Em have dug out of the woodwork. I can't believe so many of my old mates from a little country town in Aus are now here at the same time. Will be good to catch up over a few bottles of red! There's about 7 or 8 years that need to be filled in there.

This weekend though was my first weekend at home with Mark. Was good to have some chilled time without having to go anywhere. On Saturday Mark decided to take me for a drive around the country side and show me what was around where we live. We drove across to a place near Lydd, that had a whole lot of tiny midget houses along the coast line, really flat land and weird looking people there who were all out running, maybe from the ugly stick. Neither of us wanted to stay so we turned around and headed back toward Camden Sands. Along the way there were miles of fields lined with hedges and filled with the fattest sheep you've ever seen.

That's another thing about here, there are a lot of strange, even ugly, looking people with bad teeth, and also a load of fat sheep. I can't get over it, even when they're newly shorn they're so FAT!! Makes me hungry - no not the ugly people, the sheep.

Camden Sands reminds me a lot of the coast around Warrnambool, sand dunes streatching back forever, and dotted with tuffts of grasses. Was quite peaceful there, so we climbed to the top of one dunes away from the fat sheep and ugly people to smoke a spliff and contemplate the world, and whatever else was on our minds. Ahh lovely init?

I have to explain that 'init'. Seems to be something that nearly everyone here says at the end of almost anything. For instance, 'I walked down the street - init?!' or, 'I'm going shopping, init?' 'My accents funnier than yours, init??' So I've been adding it to the end of my sentences every now and then, for a laugh, although I'm the only one who thinks it's funny. It's quite weird some of the things people say, that I thought were only said in cartoons with English people in them, or old movies. I was sat on the train the other day and this girl beside me answered her phone and was chatting away. Next things you know, she shouts out 'Corr! Blimey!!' I almost burst out laughing, but everyone else seemed to think it was reasonably normal so I managed to control myself... Shouldn't have been eves dropping.

Guy Fawlkes weekend just passed. Mark and I went over to Battle - the town along from Hastings, where, you guessed it - the actual battle of Hastings took place. They had a huge procession up and down the street, people dressed up as vikings, knights, smugglers, witches and all sortst of things. All of them were carrying burning torches, and a few of the societies were drumming as they marched along. The whole town was closed off so that the procession could go through the streets and it was absolutely packed with people there to watch and take part in the bonfire celebration, which for the main part seemed to involve sinking a heap of beer.

After the different societies had paraded up and down about 4 times they made their way to the Abbey, which is part of the castle where Willem decided to live after winning the battle. Can you imagine, finishing the battle, looking about you at all the severed heads, limbs and spilled gutts and thinking 'This'd be a lovely site to build my castle and bring my family over to live. I bet they'd love it here...' Anyway that's what he did, and the field behind the abbey and the castle, is the same place that they fought in 1066. As the societies (and there was a Neville Society, which for some reason I think is quite amusing... the Neville no friends society... heh heh heh) walked into the field where the bonni was to be lit, Baldrick from Black Adder introduced them all, and the battle raisers - these exploding bomb things made from gun powder - kept going off right in the middle of the procession. After they arrived and were given the word they threw their burning torches onto the enormous pile of wood and set it all alight. The fire had also been packed full of battle raisers and made huge booming noises as the fire burnt.

After watching that for a while and getting to the point where people were looking about thinking 'so is that it? What's next, init??' Baldrick announced the firework display. Ahhhhh it was brilliant. I do love a good firework, and this was one of the best I have ever seen. Maybe the ones at Hastings were a bit better as they weren't at all obscured by the smoke, but Oh! There were so many, and all different kinds and colours!
After that they set alight the effigy. Every year they have a different effigy, and this year it was a huge tomb stone - 'RIP Free Speech' was written on it - quite apt really with the recent political climate... The effigy didn't just burn like the bonni, no, it exploded in a series of bigger and bigger bangs, until the final one blew everyone back a step or two. And then that was it. We walked back through the field and up the hill to our car, ears ringing from the bangs and explosions, and smiles on our faces from the spectacle we'd witnessed that is somehow part of our own history.

Woo Hoo!! I got a new job, I got a new job.... I start on Monday with the Aids Alliance in Brighton. Better position, better organisation,and better pay!! The interview I was supposed to have on Tuesday didn't happen til Thursday and I was starting to wonder if the agency who'd called me about it was pulling my leg. But as it turns out, no legs were pulled, and I have something to go to on Monday that it a lot more 'me'!
It's closer to the train station which means no more getting up around 6am, and I get home earlier too! The organisation seems a lot nicer than here, and the position sounds pretty interesting, well the one I should be moving into. To begin with I'll be doing data entry backlogged work and that lasts for about 3 -4 weeks, then another position comes available - at least they think so - in Admin for their policies department, and also helping out with their marketing and communications division. So it sounds like it will be reasonably varied, and interesting. They want me for that role as well which will go for about 6 months or more, so hey presto, I've got something that I like and pays reasonably well!

I'm still off to London this evening to see Aaron and Marie, but have forgotten my mobile phone battery and may not be able to catch up with the others which is a bit of a bummer, but maybe I can sort something out - dunno. Either way it should be a good evening still.

I did make one friend here at future media though - Dina, who is a lovely American girl. She's just moved over here as well and is going through the whole getting used to England thing too. It's nice to know someone in a similar position to myself, plus she's really nice, so I've made my first friend! She's living about another 10 minutes east of Brighton, so a little far from Hastings, but not too far. I'm sure they'll be up to visit at some stage. It's good to have some friends close by rather than having to go up to London to connect with mates. Still a trip to London every now and then is a bit of fun!

We had a huge storm last night. Lots of lashing rain, thunder and an awesome lightning show. Was brilliant, although walking home through it wasn't the best of fun. Being home and cozy though and watching it from inside was a lot better. It lasted for ages, and makes the flat feel really warm and nestish while it's pissing it down outside. I just want to get that fire going though, to add to the whole snuggly feeling. Soon it will be working though, I'm sure.

The train trip in is getting better each time too. I am remembering to take the necessary book for entertainment, and the scenery is pretty good. In the mornings it starts with a beautiful sunrise, views of the beach and sea, and then undulating hills and small cottages. There is a ruined castle somewhere along the way as well, just stuck out in the middle of some guys paddock - or maybe I should say 'some geezer's field'?

Almost the end of the week, and some exciting things are in store for this weekend. Yep, we've got a special on visits from older brothers, and their wives. Normally it'd be a quick trip back to Aus, but as a special offer, for this weekend only, I get to see my older brother in London - YAY!! So I'm off back to London again this Friday after work. I'll be heading up to Kings Cross, apparently much like the Kings Cross in Sydney (but I shall let you know about that one...Can't be as good as ours now can it??) meeting with Aaron & Marie and then the next day traveling with them to Essex (apparently a little like Moe, but again I shall let you know, I doubt they have a delicious Belinda, or Jayden Lesky there...)
Once in Essex I shall be dressing in my finest Vietnamese clothes and attending a wedding where I plan to drink copious amounts and have a laugh... Seeing that I won't know a soul other than Aaron and Marie, I figure what the hell? I promise not to end up on the floor though. The wedding is out in the country side, and Marie's parents (whom I will be staying with for the night after the wedding) live in a converted what-cha-ma-call-it - one of those houses that they build next to churches for priests and such... Can't think of the name of it, but I guess the description is good enough. (If not don't go playing charades any time soon...) Sounds really pretty and from the photos I have seen it looks really nice as well. If I get the chance I'm going to head off into the country side for a nice long walk in the brisk weather. Maybe to clear a hangover on the Sunday... Mmm shall have to remember to take coffee with me if I do.
On the Sunday, when we are all feeling human again, Aaron and Marie are going to come and visit my new flat!! I'm a bit excited about that actually, it's all looking pretty nice now and there are only a few bits and pieces that we want to get to finish it all off. They're going to stay the night, and possibly Monday night. So Sunday will be more beer and bourbon... And a look about town, I think we should visit a pub in the old town... Maybe the pump house... Shall decide when they get here. Ooh it's all a bit exciting really, it's like having my whole family to visit in one person.... And that sounds really strange and I encourage all that are reading this not to think about that last comment too much.
I am off for an interview today at lunch time, the Aids Alliance in Brighton are looking for someone for data entry. Not the most exciting of jobs, but at least it's back with a charity, and apparently there is another position coming up shortly with them that may be my kind of thing... We shall see. Either way I need to leave here. Getting up at 6.15am to start work at 9 is a bit much and not getting home til 8pm is horrendous. Plus the work here is mind numbing, and they would rather I sat at my desk between calls tapping my fingers than actually doing something. I'd do anything at all really rather than sit and imagine my brain melting out my ears from lack of use. So we shall see what comes of this new one. I'm going to have to quit this future media malarky anyway, there's no way I am getting up at 5 to be at work by 8, that is just the height of ridiculous-ness!
The data entry one is only supposed to be for 3 to 4 weeks anyway, and if I can ingratiate myself with these people in that time well and good. But if not there is an agency in Hastings that can get me a job within a few days which would be local, so no more travel to Brighton, and I am sorted either way that the coin lands. Well and good really.

Brrr! Today's walk to the train station was a little windy to say the least, and splattered with rain that seemed to be blown from the clouds, rather than voluntarily falling. Sometimes all things need a bit of a push I guess.... Still I got there reasonably dry (thanks to my Kathmandu coat!) and on time. Only a quarter past 7, and I didn't start til 9. Took a little less than an hour and a half, and then I was in Brighton. The world had woken up by the time that I arrived here, and the sun had decided to shine! It actually looks like it might be a nice day!

Mark and I moved into our new place over the weekend. Already it feels like home. Most things have found a place, and there's a few bits and bobs that we still need, but overall it's bloody fantastic. I wish I could download a picture of it, but as yet I am not that technologically advanced, I am working on it though.

We took nearly all that we had and needed with us down on Friday night. I'd trekked up from Brighton on the train to meet Mark at Sam's place (in London). He'd already been down to Hastings once that day to sort out keys and drop off the first load. So after a few beers with Sam it was back in the van and down to the coast - Hastings here we come!! We didn't get there until about 1am - mainly due to hanging about at Sam's and drinking beers and smoking the od spliff... But it was good to walk in our very own door, and know that it wasn't the couch or someone else's bed that we were sleeping in.... and to wake up the next day with a huge headache because we'd left the heating on... and maybe because of those beers?

The central heating here is phenomenal, so warm, if you're not careful you end up living in an oven it gets so damn hot. But here I am sounding like I am complaining (maybe I'm turning English??), when really it'd be much worse if there was no central at all.... Still I want to test out our fireplace, but we need to check with the landlady first, just to make sure it works and we're allowed to use it. Don't really want to severely burn myself.

We checked out our local on Saturday - 'The Angel'... and decided not to go there again. But lucky for us there are another two pubs close buy, both just a very short walk around the corner. One looks really cozy and I am hoping that they do pub meals - perfect for a Friday night. So that's the mission for us, to check out all the pubs in town (and there are quite a few) and decided which will be our favorites. Not a bad little project if I do say so myself, and I did.

It's Halloween soon - bit exciting really as I have never celebrated it before in any way, shape, or form. Apparently we have to get some lollies in and hand them out to people that come knocking, whilst wearing a pumpkin on your head - sounds suspiciously American to me - but I think I may go buy the lollies, then lock the door, turn the lights off and scoff them myself!

After Halloween we have Guy Fawkes night (I have no idea if I spelt this mans name right, apologies if not) which I think will be my favorite festivity as it's all about burnin' it, and fireworks, and quite frankly I LOVE fireworks, and burnin' it ain't so bad either... unless of course it's treated pine.... Seems that people get in a bit of practice before the actual night as there have been a few bangs followed by sparkles over the past week or so, which I'm glad to have witnessed. Mark and I are going to buy a bundle or 'selection box' (sounds like chocolates, but it's even better!!) and have a go. I'm so damn excited about it, I'll probably end up blowing myself up, but what a way to go - as a huge sparkle it the sky!!

So it's all happening as winter sets in here, and we get ready to be snuggly in front of the fire and have some fun with fireworks! YAY!

Well it is almost the end of my first working week, and boy am I glad to see it!! The initial joy of finally finding a job and getting some cash in, has now been over ridden by the fact that I have to get up every morning, don the work clothes and trudge into the office for a flourecent lit desk and glare of my computer. Still it's not so bad, at least it's warmer in the office than outside...
I'm sure there are other good points, but they're not springing to mind at the moment. Although I have a job, I am still on the hunt for another that will be closer to home, and hopefully better pay! Still I can't complain, some work is better than none and getting paid a low wage is better than not getting paid at all! So there it is - the other part of the bright side!! So proud of myself for finding it!!
Tomorrow after work I train it back to London and get my things together to move down to Hastings. Not being hasty at all, but I am soo looking forward to having my own place again (well I will be sharing with Mark, but I can still call it mine can't I?) And then the whole weekend free to do NUTTIN!! Laze about in bed I think and maybe see if the fireplace works... Put up some of the things I collected in my travels and make it feel like my home! Yay!!
Hastings is only about 1 hour south of London, and a really pretty drive there as well. Undulating country side, green hills and lots of hedges, in fact you can't really get away from the hedges anywhere, not that you'd really want to, they aren't dangerous, and instead are quite pretty and soft looking. You go through Kent, and other interesting places like Pratts bottom, and Lower tit... No I made that last one up, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was a town up north.
This week I have been dossing in Brighton (where I am working) at a hostel on the beach front. It's reasonably nice - clean, comfortable and warm. You couldn't really ask for more. Breakfast is included in the price so I've been eatting up large in the mornings before work, at £15 per night I figure they owe me a good big breakfast. And who cares if I look a little piggy of a morning munching my way through 4 slices of toast, a bowl of cereal and slurping my coffee?? I'm sure that no one's watching... well no I'm not sure, but I don't care anyway.
The weather has been pretty good actually. Hail last night and gale force winds gave way this morning to brilliant sun and a crisp and nippley breeze. It's still pretty as the trees haven't lost ALL of their leaves yet, and are holding onto a few yellows, reds and golds to keep a little cheer around. Apparently this winter is going to be the worst on record. Kinda funny that the people here get such a kick out of having 'the worst ever', but I suppose you've gotta be proud of something.... Not that there isn't anything to be happy about here, there is.
The place where I am working, as I said is in Brighton, in the part they call 'the lanes' which is basically the bit with lots of little winding paved streets and alleyways that aren't wide enough to let fat people through. Very quaint and sweet, also very easy to get lost. It seems that no-one had heard of the 'grid system' when they were building around here - or anywhere in England for that matter. If you take a wrong turn anywhere, you can't just take the next street to get back to the road you were on, no that would probably take you to the other side of town, or to the next town even. I am getting rather good at retracing my steps and memorising the streets so as not to become as hopelessly lost as I have been in the past here.
Anyways, I will try to be a better blogger in future, I have been a bit crap since arriving here and having to knuckle down to get a job, but now that's done I should have a bit of spare time to keep you all up to date on what's going on around here. Anyway, promises, promises, I shall see how I go, and leave you with a picture.....

Hope this works, It doesn't look as though it has.... Jess if you are reading this can you send me the details of how to ad a picture again, it seems that I am skipping something I need.

Yesterday and today turned out to be bloody brilliant! I got an email from an old highschool friend of mine - Em. I haven't seen her for at least 6 or 7 years and I'd been trying to get in touch with her and was having minimal luck, so to get something from her was at once strange and delightful! She also passed on details of anothe highschool buddy who is over this way and living in Edinburgh. I sent her off a happy birthday email, and spun her out. We'll catch up at some stage, either when I head north or when she come south to the seaside.

Em and I met up last night at a pub in Soho, and wow, it was wicked. Em looks and is just the same as I remember her. Still setting up different friends of hers with each other, still a good laugh, and loads of fun. I ended up getting reasonably pissed and missing the last train home, so stayed with her and her man - Aaron - in London town. I had my first ride in a black cab, and am proud to say that I acted the complete tourist, gawking at the sights and clicking away with my phone/camera. Made the cabby laugh, and he was a good sport having his photo taken with me when we arrived home.

This morning I woke with a banging head, but after going back to sleep till 11, I was as right as rain - the rain that was beating on the window. That slow gin, although bloody tasty creeps up on you, but then the numerous beers probably had a hand in it, and possibly the shots as well.

But the rain cleared up and after a cup o' tea we (George - Aaron's dad, Aaron's brother (no, not Lincoln) and Dave) all trotted off down the street to the Tate Modern. Wow!! It was wicked! Loved it, so awe inspiring.. All those sculptures and paintings that I have only ever drooled over in art books at home, to see 'in the flesh' was brilliant. The pictures don't do them justice, Rodin Giacometti, brilliant, loved it. Makes me want to get my hands into some clay again, and the good thing about that is that I will be able to soon, I'll have my own little place down by the sea in Hastings! But aaah, the things in there. I will definietly be going back soon, when I haven't had such a big night the evening before.

Right accross from the Tate is St Pauls Cathedral. Whenever I looked at it the first thing that would pop into my head was that episode from the goodies where the giant kitten wreaks havoc in London with its playful ways. It really is great though to see these things 'for real' when I've read so much about them, or seen the so often at home on telly. All I need now is to get one of those tandem bikes, or bikes for three to cycle around on and complete my England/London fantasy.

Tomorrow I am off to Hastings with Mark for a few days work. Nothing terribly exciting but it will put some much appreciated and needed cash in my pocket. And then soon enough we will be down there for good, or good-ish.

So the work situation here in the UK is proving to be a little more complicated than I first thought.... Still it's early days and things are on the way to getting sorted. Last week I went down to visit Ash in Worthing, and Steve, as he was down to visit Ash as well.

Was good as I got to end things properly with Steve and the whole divorce thing. And although it was a little strange at first, and throughout my stay there I'm glad that I went down there. Seems like won't be seeing too much more of Ash or Steve though.... I guess that's the way of these things and there's no regrets on my part, other than a little sadness at the ending of that era or part of my life. But everything keeps changing and it would be bloody boring if they stayed the same.

Going to Worthing proved to be reasonably successful as far as the job search went, and I have a few positions that I am waiting to hear back about. So fingers crossed that something comes up soon and I have some cash coming in shortly.

Mark and I went to look for a flat or house in Hastings (on the south coast) late last week as well and we've found a great little place which over looks the sea and a park. It's really pretty in Hastings - rolling hills, woods, cliffs and the sea!! Everything I could want. There's heaps of castles and ancient buildings around as well. Small winding streets and little lanes. It's beautiful and aside from wanting my own place, I'm looking forward to moving somewhere as picturesque and peaceful as there. Walks in the wood and snuggling up in front of the fire are definitely on the agenda when we get there.

So in a few weeks time we'll be down there and sorting out things for our new place! Furniture wise and such we don't have a lot but that too doesn't seem to be too much of a problem, things are being donated from friends who've just moved out of their place, and I have plenty of bits and pieces that I collected on my travels to make the place homely.

Getting a bank account and National Insurance number here is seemingly near impossible!! The bank wants me to have been in the country for 6 months before they will even give me an account, and national insurance say that I need to be working before I can have a number, and of course all of these things I need in order to get a job, work and get paid!! Arrrrgh, it's all going around in circles, but I'm sure I can work it out, one way or another. At least I'll have a home soon, which is a good start.

The people I have been staying with have been fantastic, and really done me a huge favour by giving me somewhere to stay while I sort all this out. Hopefully I will be able to return the favour one day, in some way.

Anyway, that's about it. I've been looking for work, and trying to sort mundane things like that out, so there isn't too much to write about. Once that's sorted though I'll be able to take a look around England and hopefully my blogs will become a little more interesting.

Ah ha! I'm in England and looking for work. A bit of a shock to the system, and not such a nice way to burst the old travel bubble, but as 'they' say, better sooner than later, although in this case I don't quite agree....Have only been here for about a week, and am staying with some friends of Marks. It's cold and damp, but seeing that it is the start of Autumn (my favorite season) I can't really expect temperatures similar to where I have been, plus I have a riot of colour awaiting me which more than makes up for the cold!

I've been a bad blogger as I have been using all my computer time on the job hunt, and getting about looking for work. It'll be pretty much the same until I do catch one - hopefully a nice juicey one too! Still it's paying off, I have 3 interviews this Monday, down in Brighton and that way, so hopefully something will come of it!

On Sunday I am off to the south to visit my friend -Ash - near Brighton. It's also where I am looking for work & wanting to live, I don't think I wanna get stuck in London, and being by the beach (even if it is full of pebbles) sounds better than the city. I can always come north for a visit to London when I want, and it's closer to France.... Everything is so damn close here it's BRILLIANT!

Looks like I will be bumping into Steve shortly too. He's down at Ash's place at the moment and is supposed to be leaving early next week. It'll be good to catch up and put a cap on everything from the past 2 years or so... Almost exactly 2 years since I have seen him, 1 week shy. Anyway if worse comes to worse, I can always leave!

Had no luck with a job with Oxam here, the contact I had leaves at the end of this week - today - and she suggested I do volunteer work to begin with, which although may be good, it won't feed me.... The only other job I found in charity work is in Northern Ireland, and I dunno if I wanna go there either... Still there is plenty to apply for and chase after here.

Anyway, that's about it. Enough of talking about work etc. I went into Earls Court the other day, just for a look about and my first experience on the train here. I got lost on the way back, but thankfully people here speak the same language, so I was able to get some good directions and find my way back. Haven't been all the way into the city yet, may leave that for a couple of weeks depending on what happens next week with these interviews..... Ahh here I go talking about working again. And all the travel stuff seems aeons away now.... Routine and normalicy....

Delhi! Don't think I will be here long enough to aquire the belly famous from these parts, but the town is crazy, but not as mad as Kathmandu I don't think. I arrived a few hours ago and am on the way to London - run outta cash and is best to go earn some more and then I can come back.

Nepal is amazing, loved it, loved the people and plan to go trekking as soon as I can. Nepal they say is 'Never Ending Love And Peace' And it's damn well true. Really enjoyed worshiping Shiva too - that dude's got some good shit goin' on!
India however I have been told is a matter of "I'll Never Do It Again" Still I'm not going to be here long enough to decide such things...

Everything has happened a bit quick and I'm still a little flustered from the flight from Kathmandu and running about trying to get the dates of my ticket to London changed for less than $200... What a fuckin sham huh?

My rafting was wicked, but I think I blogged that already... Met a girl from Holland on the bus back from Pokhara who'd spent 6 days trekking around near the Annapurna ranges (what I'm gonna do when I return, but for about 8 to 10 days, I reckon I can hack it, and I have found someone to guide me that I trust) Anyway, she ran into Maoists when she was on her 3rd day and they 'asked' her to make a donation to their cause at gun point. Being a crazy holland-ish chick she said no, she didn't want to get involved in their political situation and that they should leave the tourists alone. Her guide was sat there shitting himself. Anyway, they gestured at her again with the gun, so she gave in. But you're not going to believe this, after giving them the amount they demanded, they gave her a receipt!!! Said something on it like 'voluntary donation of x amount made to the Maoist cause' I said she should try to make a tax claim on in when she gets home... Bit bloody bizzare though dontcha think??

Aside from that little story there isn't so much else to say. Pokhara is a beautiful town. I walked up to the peace pagoda on the Sunday and checked out the Shiva cave and Devi falls on the way back down. The view from the Pagoda is gorgeous though (it's an hour walk up the 'mountain from Pokhara city) and the falls are amazing. The shive cave is basically a wet cave where someone has built a Shiva shrine. The depiction of the deity looks rather like a huge cock with a hand over it.... Hmmm. Still makes sense in a weird sorta way, as well as being the god for destruction Shiva is also the god of fertility. The best way to pay homage to this god is to smoke some good hash with mates, better than dressing in your Sunday best to go listen to some boring sermons I think. Hindi is a pretty interesting religion, and I learnt a whole heap about the different deities, although not all of them as there are about 40,000 and i won't bore you with the details of the ones I did get to know.

On the Monday before I caught my bus I went to the top of Sanrangkot Mountain (on a motorbike, walking before 6am isn't my idea of fun) for a view of fishtale mountain. Unfortunately there was too much cloud to see the mountain, but the views of the valley were priceless, and I'm still glad I braved the early hours. By the time I got to the buss stop the cloud had cleared a little and I got a glimps of the peak.... beautiful. Enough to make me wanna go there, or close by anyway.

Well my pretties, I am off to grab some food and try to sleep as I have to be up early to sort out this flight bullshit... Ahh it goes on but I expect it's character building.

Ahh Pokhara! Only arrived about an hour ago but have had a peek about town and it looks pretty peaceful and nice. The lake is huge and really pretty surrounded by huge mountains and forest... mmmm nice!

On the way here from Kathmandu I stopped for two days of rafting on the Trisuli river. What an adrenalin pumping ride!! Sooo much fun. The first day I was with a group made up of 3 Israiles and 3 Japanese. We all got along reasonably well, and the rapids were excellent!! Lots of high tides and water splashing into our raft. Great fun, and I have a few calouses now to prove how hard I am - Ha hahaha. The photos should be good too. When we stopped for lunch we were surrounded by about 4 little Nepali boys all playing in the river in various stages of undress. I got the camera out and what posers they all turned out to be!! Should be some good shots though - if my camera decided to work (it's been acting a bit strange..) They were happy with a 'Dunyabad' (Thank you) and no hands were put out expecting to be filled with rupees....
The second day was the same part of the river but a different group. I spent last night camping by the road out the front of the rafting place. Initially I was told we would be rafting in two places along the same river, but due to landslides we weren't able to. Ahh well today was also good. This time it was with 2 older Indian men - one who kept saying that he was very exciting for the rafting (but I managed not to laugh about that), a Spanish guy and his Irish girlfriend. Again all really nice people. The Indian guy who was very exciting was soo funny to watch. He absolutely loved the time and every swell that came over the raft he would squeal with pleasure. He had found his adventure.
We all shared the bus together to Pokhara, and I got talking to the exciting Indian (sorry I can't remember his name!) Somehow we ended up talking about books, and he was soo suprised that I didn't know his favorite author, James Vos Fapy (or something like that) I apologized and asked what books he had written, he said that he didn't as he was now dead... OK? So I asked what books he had written before he died, I don't think he understood the question second time around either, because he answered that this author wrote in Hindi! No bloody wonder I hadn't heard of him!

I went to the Pashupati temple a few days ago in Kathmandu. Everyone here wants to be paid for everything. I wandered around, saw a body burning by the river and a few others being preparded for cremation. A whole lotta hermits and holy men live there. Apparently they spend their days smoking grass and meditating which means that when they pass from this life they automatically reach Nirvana... Maybe I'm half way there with all the grass I've smoked??! Ha ha There was this one holy man - or Sadu - with dreds that more than reached the ground, they dragged along behind him when he walked. He asked if I wanted to take his photograph, which seemed like a good idea, but luckily I negotiated the price first - 2 photos for 20 rupees. This place is bloody insane, but I like it!

The bus trip today to Pokhara was on a local bus - my first in this country. The scenery was beautiful, and the bus an experience all it's own. The isle was stacked with our packs, tomatoes, other vegies and some chicks in a cardboard box - so sweet with their cheep cheep cheeping for half of the journey. Every 15 kms or so the bus would stop, and half the passengers would get off and walk about 10 metres up the road. While they were doing this a soldier would get on and check bags and things. Then the bus would start up again, drive 10 metres and pick up the people who'd gotten off and we'd continue on our way.

Oh I should fill you in on the dinner with the Nepali people. It turned out pretty well and I have made a friend! Dinner was delicious and going to a Nepali/Indian home was a whole new experience too. They had a 'boy' who does all the cooking and cleaning. They would yell from the living room what they wanted and he would appear a few moments later with whatever it was. I couldn't help saying dunyabad everytime he appeared, I hate being waited upon, and felt a bit like they were taking the piss. But they soon told me to stop thanking him, it was his job and I was embarassing him.... When dinner came around I asked if he was going to join us, but they said no he slept and ate in the kitchen. Apparently his family has worked for theirs for generations now, so I guess it must work. A whole new different world it truly is! I went around there again for dinner the next night as well as it was my last night in Kathmandu and they invited me again, saying I had to come or they would be offended. Again dinner was delicious and the company of Ronnie and his brother Dave is a good laugh. I go back to Kathmandu on Monday and they have promised to watch their favorite Bollywood movie with me on their wide screen tv... It's all a bit strange seeing people live like this when outside the fence the streets are so dirty and dusty, and the beggars and street sellers look so poor.

Nepal - Kathmandu, dusty, dirty, crazy and somehow at the same time reasonably calm... A strange concoction really and a heaving mass of people everywhere. I have no idea how they get trucks down the streets here, you can't really call them streets, little - tiny even - alley ways, that are sometimes too narrow for two lines of people. Still things seem to get done, and people get around, somehow!!

I went to the 'Monkey temple' the other day which was pretty cool, offering great views of the Kathmandu valley. I went with two of the Nepali guys from the guesthouse where I am staying. Pretty nice people, but the language barrier is sometimes a bit of a problem. One of them was coming onto me so hard and only in the first few hours that I had met him. Try explaining to someone in sign language and pidgin English that you like them as a friend but aren't going to be having sex with 'em. Not the easiest of tasks, but I though I had managed to make sense, until later that evening....

I went out with another guy from the guesthouse - a Hungarian/English guy who has spent the last 11 years traveling. He was a tour guide with intrepid for a few of those years and then decided he was over it and wanted to just be a traveler on his own - if only hey?? We got talking about the trek I had booked and where it was etc etc. As it turned out he reckoned I was getting ripped by at least $200 (USD) and advised that I cancel the expedition. Also apparently Chitwin National park is known as 'Shitwin' by the people who've been there. (Sounds a bit like the whole Kakadu thing - Kaka-don't) So I decided to go with his advice and talk with the travel agency in the morning.

After numerous beers we went back to the guest house, rang the door bell - which makes a sound somewhere between a scream and a whistle, quite strange really - and headed off to our separate rooms. Was pretty early really, just around midnight, but things in Kathmandu seem to shut up early, something to do with the self imposed curfew because of the maoist problems. There is a slightly fearful undercurrent here. Anyway, I got back to my room snibbed the door and fell into bed and asleep almost immediately. Next thing I know I am sat bolt upright in bed and screaming, my door was open and silhouetted there was one of the Nepali guys I had been to the monkey temple with that day. He said that he was 'only checking I was home safe, and would I like to smoke some hash with him'. Ahh yeah, right, at 2am when I have been woken up, scared shitless by someone coming into my room unannounced and half dressed.... What else would I be wanting to do then smoke hash with that very same person????

After explaining that he had scared me and I was trying to sleep and could he place go away several times, he did finally leave and I went back to sleep to nightmare about little Nepali men breaking into my room and other strange things... Not the best of experiences, but then it could've been worse huh?

Anyway next morning I cancelled my trekking and Chitwin, but am still doing the white water rafting. Then I'm heading onto Pokhara for some sightseeing and a few walks around the area on my own. Am kinda looking forward to getting away from the guesthouse I am in and Kathmandu in general, although it was only one bad experience, and there are many other beautiful things about this place.
I have done a bit of shopping and tomorrow intend to go and see the temple where they burn bodies, a little morbid but apparently a 'must see' if you are in Kathmandu.

Today I met a nice Indian/Nepali man in the street and sat and drank tea (seems to be a national pastime here) with him for a few hours while exchanging stories. I'm having dinner with him this evening at his place and trusting my instincts everything should be ok. I guess that sounds a bit bloody strange of me especially after reading the above story, but I think it will be ok. In any case he wasn't giving me any weird feelings, looks or comments.

The mountains still have their charm, even though I see them everyday I wake, they're massive and wild, a certain strength and peace about them as well which reminds me of the Nepali people themselves. The streets although dusty and dirty are filled with colour and action. Not really that smelly (generally) and you could spend hours (and I have) just sitting and watching the world pass by you in all its colour, bustling sounds and splendor. It really is a lovely place, and I wish I could spend more time here. Still all things come to an end and Nepal ain't going anywhere so I will be back again one day to try that elusive trek that I have decided not to do this time around.

Well that's about it for now, next time I blog I'll be in Pokhara! Supposed to be a beautiful place and quite different from here. The town sits beside a lake and is surrounded by the Annapurna mountain ranges, and some others that I don't know the names of. Sounds really peaceful and some have even described it as magical. I shall let you know!!

Well here I am in the lofty peaks of Nepal, well actually in the Kathmandu Valley, but still it's about 2500 feet or metres (dunno which) above sea level, so still pretty damn high...

I arrived only yesterday and here is a complete change from SE Asia.. From the people to the streets, the food and just the general feel of the place.

Kathmandu is a knot of narrow streets and alley ways, all looking pretty much the same and without street names. Makes it hard to navigate your way around, and you almost need a guide just to get to the internet store! I have been lost twice already, but have managed to make it back to my guesthouse unscathed!!

Today I went to check out the Buddhist temple - or what is locally known as the 'monkey temple'. Not because they worship monkeys there (although they are protected when on temples grounds) but because there are loads of monkey families hanging out there. Ready to steal food straight from your hand or entertain you with their crazy antics. The place really smelt, but aside from that was pretty cool. I got my first 'tikka' which is a red, gold, silver, and yellow dot at the top and centre of my forehead. The red is made up of dye and rice so it stands out like a big zit, and is then decorated with dots of the other colours.

I have also booked a trek and a few other things that will keep me occupied for the 2 & 1/2 weeks that I am here. White water rafting, trekking, and elephant safari and a few other things shall keep me busy and away from the souvenir shops - hopefully!!

Speaking of shopping though, I did have to (and still do) get a few things for my trek. A coat and boots. Got the coat today which is an amazingly beautiful Nepali number, the embroidery details is wicked, but is reasonably plain in the colours so that I can still feel comfortable wearing it at home. Long warm and made of pure wool!

Boots are tomorrows purchase, and probably one of those wall hangings I keep seeing everywhere. Then it's enough spending until after my trek at least!!

It's almost the end of my travels, which although is kinda sad, I am also looking forward to getting back to life kinda as I know it. Will be good to catch up with friends in the UK that I haven't seen in years, and to be speaking the native language again!!

All good things must come to an end, but I wanna know why that has to be!!

I am back in Bangkok after 9 days of BLISS on Ko Lanta. The beach there is amazing (think I said that though) the National Park was excellent, saw heaps of Monkeys (in Thai - LING! I learnt something new!) and a huge lizard or two. Butterflies were flitting all around the jungle where we walked. It was a really good day that one, walking around there. And we were lucky enough to get in for free... Had I mentioned that already too?

Marks brother Lee turned up with his girlfriend Jemma a few days before we had to leave, which was really nice. I got to meet some of Marks family and it was good to have some others around. A deserted beach is all well and good until you want to talk to someone...! Ha ha. We went snorkeling with them on our last day there. Took a long tail boat out to a few of the islands around there (well we didn't, but the boat person did) they stopped at some good spots and we just jumped over the side into underwater wonderland. Amazing deep water snorkel action! Saw a huge jelly fish, lotsa colorful fish - some angel fish and heaps of others that I don't know the names of. But again the fish, and the colors were endless. I had a bong with the guys on the boat after our first stop. Good Thai weed! But then when we got to the next stop for some more coral and fish action I had the munchies.... Coral and live raw fish have never looked so tasty! There was this yellow soft coral that looked just like buttered popcorn, and made my stomach grumble, right after which a fish with all the gelati colors swam right by me.... Mmmmm gelati and popcorn. I was starting to think like Homer. The way back in the boat was pretty flat and calm. The driver(?) started talking about when it was wavy though and how some of the tourists start to cry when it gets a little rough. He was laughing so much about it, and mimicking '....They say mama, papa, and cry, cry, but no mama or papa for them - ha hahahahaha....'

Had a massage while I was there too. Out on the decking looking at the waves roll in while I was greased up with coconut oil and rubbed all over until all my muscles felt like jelly. Soo good, and then a few beers, plates of mussels, prawns and fish for dinner. The food there was tooo good - even I enjoyed seafood which normally I wouldn't touch with a barge pole. But I'm a convert now, which is probably worse than a non-believer.

We came back to Bangkok on the Thursday. I so didn't want to leave. The place was pure magic. Still Mark had to catch his plane (this morning) and I have to catch mine tomorrow morning. The bus back was the usual hell ride, uncomfortable seats (especially after 20 hours), a crap movie, and a driver that can't drive.... All the usual fare really and nothing to complain about. Pretty good in fact compared to Cambodia or even Vietnam.

Anyway, Marks gone, I'm on my own again, will shortly be on the road again too. Looking forward to a change of scenery - mountains and more mountains. Don't have much idea at this stage where I will go or what I will do. Shall figure that one out on the plane and today after reading up on the place. Plenty of time for all that! But for now it's goodbye to Thailand - parting is such sweet sorrow, and I will definitely return again one day. The love affair has only just begun!

Can't believe I found an internet place on this largely untouched beach. The beer ain't as cheap, but the weather is... Interesting, and there's plenty of other compensations!

Tomorrow I'm planning on getting into town and then to the other side of this island to see if I can find these sea gypsies I've read about... Maybe they're myths? Tomorrow my mission is to find out, and bring back photographic evidence of their existence.

If not then a day in the sun never goes unenjoyed, and I am sure there will be something about to entertain me... Ha ha sounds like a shakespears sister track... Bit sad me admitting that maybe? Who cares..?!

Went for a walk to the national park yesterday, saw monkeys, snakes a huge lizard. Was pretty damn good, but would've seen more if we hadn't've invited the dog from the bungalows along. Was luck enough to go in the park free of charge though, so who's complaining? These Thai have to get used to the Aussies taking advantage of an unmanned ticket booth.

Thursday it's back to Bangkok though, arrive on Friday, then Mark is off back to the UK, and then Geneva, while I continue - ever onwards (thanks St Pauls) - to Nepal and further adventures, which I am sure will include further blisters. But I'm up for it. Want to get back on the road again... Cheers Slim....

Another beautiful island with a near deserted beach, this place is absolutely gorgeous!! Ko Lanta, just south of Phi Phi, a true paradise.

The surf is great for a little body surfing (thinking of doing that tomorrow), there's a small beach just around the corner from us that is supposed to be great for snorkeling, a national park is less than a 1/2 hour walk away.... Ahh, the food is heavenly, and the people are lovely.
We've only been here for about 2 days, but I don't want to leave! Even though I may be spending a little more than I should and be having to cut back my time in Nepal and India, which is a bit of a bummer. Still life at the moment is too good, and I don't want to think too much about possible money problems... Maybe my tax will be done soon, and that should give me a little influx of funds.

I'm thinking of doing a cooking class here as, like I said, the food is delicious. The only problem with the class would be deciding what I want to learn to cook! I'm actually eating seafood, which I normally don't like, but the fish, prawns, muscles and other delights are too good to pass by. Mmm, it's making me hungry just thinking about it and I've only just had breakfast.

This afternoon, after here, we're off for a walk through the national forest... Looks beautiful, lots of big trees, there's supposed to be a waterfall around somewhere too, just a matter of finding it. So much to do if your happy doing the nature thing. There's a heap of different lizards, birds and - OH!!! I saw fireflies for the first time ever at the beach and forest here. Lovely little critters - Nay, one of the guys at the bungalows caught on for me last night and gave it to me, so I also got to check 'em out up close. Little crabs on the beaches, aaaahhhh it's paradise.

Was also thinking I may do an elephant trek here, through the national park, and hopefully to the sea gypsy village... Still all depends on time and cash - as always! The elephants seems to be pretty happy and I haven't seen any big spikes used for discipline or anything, so that's ok. Will have to see how it goes. There's plenty of other things to do to keep yourself occupied - kayaking (again) there's a Viking cave around here somewhere that has paintings from ages ago. Although that may be on Phi Phi, can't remember exactly.

Aside from that though, there's not too much to say - I'll definitely be having a massage before I leave. Limber me up for the mountainous trekking through Nepal!! The weather has been fabulous, the company ain't that bad either. Mark's brother is coming out to Bangkok in a few days and may be meeting us down here. Depends on if he gets here in time though as my time (and Marks) in Thailand, is almost up -for this year at least. Still you never know what's just around the corner do you??

It's definitely good to be away from everything, including computers (had to drive for about 15 minutes to get to this one), and the general hustle bustle of cities and such. Maybe I will stay.... Find a job and settle here...? Probably not though.

It's been a little while since I've been even near a town, let alone a computer, so excuse my tardiness in blogging. It's been a beautiful week, gorgeous sunshine and all that.

Mark and I left for Ko Phangan on Sunday and arrived the following afternoon. Stayed at some really pretty bungalows just up from Had Yao, and spent two days swimming and walking about.... Was nice, went and visited the last place I stayed at, and surprisingly they remembered me! Ended up staying there for the whole arvo and blew about 1000 drinking, smokin and chatting with Boi. Was a good afternoon though. Next day we came to Ko Tao, and have been in Tanote bay for the last 4 days or so... What day is it today?

Been snorkeling - which was absolutely amazing - so many fish, shapes, colours and ohhh the coral.... Was really clear the first time we went out. I loved it, once you're used to breathing through that little tube of plastic. Had a few spliffs and floated out in the bay for hours just watching them all zip about in and out of their little homes... Yapping to each other, munching on coral.
Went out again in a different part of the bay the same day and it wasn't nearly as clear, but still good, swimming past different bits of the coral that you recognize, like the one in the centre of the bay that looks like a brain. So nice. The next day (or the one after that, can't remember) we hired a kayak in the morning and paddled around to Ao Luk, which was a bit of an adventure in itself, but the bay there as well is amazing the fish aren't at all afraid and will swim straight up to your mask to check you out as much as you are with them. The paddling around there was a little bit hairy at times - especially when the wind picked up and we were trying to navigate through two rocks reasonably close to the shore and where it was still deep and rocky/corally. I kept getting images of the boat flipping and being washed up against that - OUCH! But still it didn't happen and it was a heap of fun.

Tomorrow we may go over to Ko Lanta, which sounds very nice, but again I doubt there will be much chance to email or blog. Still I haven't really been doing that much, swimming, lazing on the beach, starting to look black again.... Ahh well. Drinking too much beer & spliffing on.... that's pretty much been the extent of my last week. Not that it's a bad thing.... Can't say I miss work or Melbourne's cold.

Ok, so two days now back in Bangkok, and sometimes even this can be too much. The great Ko San Rd - forget about sleep and relaxing! But tonight it's back on a bus (thankfully Thailand is gonna be better than Vietnam...) and head down to ko Phangan.

Met up with Mark yesterday, and everything is the 'same same, but different', still it's great to have an old close mate around, and also someone to talk to again that knows me. My Australian reality and life sometimes feels like a dream, or at least another world away. I'm looking forward to leaving the city behind again though, and heading for some more sun, surf and chill out time on the white sands of the islands.

Have no plans other than to do as close to nothing while down there, so don't expect high excitment from ye ol' blog site for a few weeks, although I'll still be keeping you up to date on what's going on, but I'm sure it won't be much. After only a few days since I last wrote though, there isn't much to say. Have restrained myself as far as shopping since back, have had a load of catch up time with Mark and was up all night talking. Aside from that though same ol', same ol'

So until something worth noting - including a few envy rasing words, there's no more from me. Have had enough of computers and internet cafe's for now.... Need to have some down time myself.

Am back in Bangkok after a delerious train ride..... Whenever I decide I need an early night, I seem to be up until all hours of the morning - but what the hell, I'm still on holidays!!

I met up with Ramon again - unexpectedly - in Chiang Mai, I'd already been drinking with Stephen and Miguel that day, and so was a little tipsy, as you can tell from the previous blog. But was so good to see an 'old face' that I went out with Ramon and Miguel to what I think is the only bar open all night in Chiang Mai - a place called 'Spice' bar or spicey... something like that...

Anyway stayed up all night chatting with Ramon (gotta love those english accents!!) and then also awake all day as I had to check out of my room. Can't believe I was awake for well over 24 hours, but seemed to manage it ok until I got on the train. Walking down the train station I started to hear and see things that weren't there - my sleep deprivation hallucinations were kicking in - away we go! Thankfully I was able to get on the train early and my seat (which was later to fold out to a bed) was extremely comfortable. I promptly fell asleep for all of 1/2 an hour and then was awake until about 10 that night.... About 36 hours of being awake on only 1/2 an hour sleep can't be good for you, but then it can't be all bad, as I'm still here alive and kicking! Plus the added treat of the hallucinations made the train ride that much more interesting!

Chiang Mai was pretty damn good! The night in Lam Shang national park was cool, and I dunno if I blogged about it already, but I got a lift into Tak bus station the next morning courtesy of the park rangers. Saved me walking and hitching the rest of the way into town with all those god damed bags!!

I met up with a Spanish guy on my second night there - Miguel and had some interesting and intelligent conversation which was a change from me talking to myself for over a week... Not that I'm bad company, but I was starting to wonder if I was on my way to maddness.

Decided to go and check out the night market with him that night, and ended up buying a few things, and yet more CD's.... Definitely have not got more room for more - unless I buy a new CD case... and then where the hell am I gonna pack that?

Next day we met up for breakky and met another English guy - Stephen (thankfully not the x Steve) who'd arrived in Chiang Mai that morning. We all headed off to the Bo Sang market together and I again ended up buying some more things.... Just a new purse though which I was greatly in need of as the other one was well and truly cactus, and a parasol made from wax paper - coz I really need one..... The woman i bought the purse from bargained herself down from 55 baht to 40, without any prompting from me, but I think she though I was a little strange when I insisted she put my change in the new purse before handing it to me so that it was good luck.... Took about 5 minutes to explain what I wanted her to do, and then she pissed her self laughing at me.

So after that it was the evening when I met Ramon, and on the next day keeping him awake so that I had company until I caught my train. Hope he didn't mind, but I thought it was good, and enjoyed having and meeting up with such nice guy.

Cannot think of what to write - have drunk too much cheap cheap blessed beer....

Ahhhh... So glad I am no longer in Mae Sot!! What a debacle that was! And the only good thing to come of it was that I got to cross the border to Myanmar - for lunch - and then back, gave me an extra month on my visa, and lightned my purse 500baht, but what's that between friends really??

Am now in Chiang Mai... but there's a little inbetween that I have to tell...

I tried to go to Umphaeng wildlife sanctuary on Monday. Got up early and was having breakfast when 'Mr Oom' (later we shall rename this little yellow character...) asked what I had planned for the day. I told him I was going to catch a Shong Thaew to Umphaeng, and although I was only going for the day was there anything that he'd suggest I see or do?? He smiled, and said 'no, you need more time to be able to see it all' Fair enough said I to myself, the book says it is a lovely drive there, I am sure I will at least see some trees and things, so it won't be a complete dead loss.

So off I went, it was about 9am- early when you're supposed to be on holidays! Mr Oom waved his good bye with barely a smile - something I was beginning to wonder if he was capable of doing. I walked to the Shong Thaew stop, and yes! I was just in time for the 9.30 departure to Umphaeng! YAY!! Then I checked the timetable.... ever hour the shong theaw's left, the last Shong Thaew back from Umphaeng was at 12 midday - effectively meaning that I had already missed the last bus, as the sign also courteously advised me that the trip was 4 hours. VERY disappointed, as the only other reason (other than crossing the border for extra visa time) that I had come to Mae blasted Sot, was to see this goddamned wildlife sanctuary!! The only other way I could get there was with a trek - I'm not really built for trekking, and the shortest trek you can do is four days - not enough time for this mucking about, the smallest group is four, and even if I stacked on the punds, I am sure Mr Oom wouldn't have made allowances.

So dejected and downcast I headed back to the guesthouse... thinking up other things I could possibly do to pass the time in this horrid little backwater of a place.Thinking of nothing other than to leave and head back to Tak, and the National park there, I arrived at the guesthouse again, to come up against Mr Oom again..... Urrrgh. He looked at me, with no surprise. I said to him - 'I tried to go to Umphaeng, but I had already missed the last Shong Thaew back to Mae Sot, so I couldn't go.... It's disappointing, but instead I think I will leave for Tak, and go to see the Lam Sang national park instead' He gave me a huge smile (I almost fell over in surprise!) and said 'yes, you were too late to go.... ahhh..... maybe you should go to Tak' Who did this man think he was??? Mr Miyagi???? The Mr Miyagi of Mae Sot and Umphaeng! Bloody fuckin hell!! Wax on wax fuckin off..... He had already know I was too late before I'd even left.... He was no help at all and the only time he was nice was when I told him I was leaving... The prick definitely didn't like me from the moment he saw me, and I have no idea why... Ah well fuck it, am no longer there.

So I got on the next minibus and asked that they drop me at the entrance to the Lam Shang National Park instead of taking me all the way to Tak. They kindly obliged and I walked and hitched the remaining miles to the actual park. Well worth the effort - and not only to be away from the all knowing, all seeing Mr Miyagi.

The park was amazing, I had walked for maybe all of half an hour before I was picked up and given a life the rest of the way. Beautiful jungle, mountains.... ahhh finally some forest. It was about 6 bucks entry, and then I hired a tent to camp in for the night. The rangers put it up for me, gave me a sleeping bag, and told me where everything was. Even organised my dinner and breakfast for the next morning!!

I went for a walk around the park, saw so many different kinds of butterflies, waterfalls, and just forest/jungle. Was great (despite the blisters), and finally I felt at ease again, not like I was infringing on someones space, as I had felt at the #4 guesthouse... bloody Mr Miyagi....

That night at about 6, my dinner arrived - straight to my tent door!! Then I settled in, content listening to the sounds of the waterfall I was beside, and my CD walkman.... gotta have some creature comforts! I had a little trouble getting to sleep as I couldn't stop thinking about the creatures creeping around outside my tent door, plus the ground was a little hard. But eventually I dropped off, and all was well. I dreamt I was training dogs - some as small as ink dots, and that they all loved me... Weird.

Next morning I woke with the dawn, although due to the mountains, it wasn't too early. Before I'd even had time to say 'Jack Spratt' (as I do say that every morning on waking) my breakfast had arrived, again straight to my tent door!! Amazing! After my breakfast of rice, soup and egg it was off for a shower and to pack ready for the trek out of the park and back to the main road to catch another minibus to Tak.

After packing I headed up to the park headquarters to pay for the night, was given a 100baht discount as I didn't need a receipt, and then told that if I waited for 5 minutes I could have a free lift to the Tak bus station!! Sooo good!

So I got into Tak, took a bus here to Chiang Mai, and since then have had a check around, found myself a place to stay and had dinner at some Thai girlfriend pick up bar. Kinda wierd, but the service was good....

For the next 3 days or so I shall be having a look around here - no doubt more temples - and then it's back to bangkok to meet Mark. A friend again!!

So here I am in Mae Sot, or Mae Sod, depending on which sign you read, that is if you can find a sign in English!

I arrived here yesterday and had a look about, settled blah blah blah. This place really feels like a frontier town, and I feel like the only white guy here. I am dressing conservativly to attract as little attention as possible, but I think my blonde hair and pale skin is giving me away all the same - I may be tanned, but not that tanned. Still, after Vietnam and the other places I have been getting stared at seems to be the norm!

Today I walked to the Myanmar/Thai border to get some more time on my visa here. So much for it not costing anything... but that wasn't a problem, cost the same as if I had've tried for an extension at the immigration office, and at least I was certain to get the amount of time I wanted!

Anyway, the information at the guest house said that it was 'a quick 10 minute walk to the border' - MY ARSE IT IS! It took me well over an hour to get there, it rained on the way and luckily as it started to really piss down a Saamlaew stopped an gave me a lift the rest of the way - for free. Which was really nice, even though it was only about another 1km.

So I got there, passed through border control/passport control and headed off over the friendship bridge to Myanmar. Not much to say about it, another border town, much the same as Mae Sot. Had lunch there and a smoke and then headed back across the bridge to Thailand again! That took most of the day... or the better part of it anyway.

By the time I got back to Thailand it was raining in earnest, and I decided to catch a Saamlaew back to Mae Sot instead of attempting the long distance trek back on foot. Got here ok, not much to say about that....

Heading to the wildlife sancuary tomorrow, then possibly to Chiang Mai or Kanchaniburi... dunno yet and probably wont until I get on the bus!

What a trip! I left on the train very early on Tuesday morning, bound for Sukothai, 3rd class sitting with all the other Thai people. Don't think there was another westerner on my carriage, but what the hell, why not travel as the people do when you're in their country??

The train ride was going to be a bit of a hard one from the start. I was supposed to meet with a guy I had met at the travel agents when booking my ticket, that night for a few beers, but he didn't show, so I went to the pub alone. Still like I said when travelling alone, you're never alone for too long. I met a few guys, one English (love an English accent), and the other an Israelli, fresh outta Aus! Chatted with them for who knows how long, the Israelli left after a while and I sat chatting to Simon the English guy until the wee hours of the morning - not a good idea considering I had to be up at 5.30am to finish packing and catch my train.

The actual train ride though was pretty good, I hardly slept as there was too much to look at and too much to think about - what would Sukothai be like, would I be able to find my way there from Phuksanulok? What was I gonna have to eat? Blah blah blah - your mind just keeps going sometimes doesn't it?

We past a few enormous golden buddahs set into mountainsides, the question of food resolved itself as a little thai guy came up the isle offering shrink wrapped packages of rice and something else. I chose the one that LOOKED like it had bacon and something else with the rice. The stuff that looked like crumbled up nuts turned out to be spicey something with chillies, and the 'bacon' turned out to be SWEET SAUSAGE - YUCK!!, but the rice, thankfully was still rice! I ate the most of it, under the scrutiny of the other Thai pasasengers, and when I put aside the 'sausage/bacon' they pointed and with hand signals asked why. I said it didn't taste good, they didn't understand and asked if it smelt bad, I said no it tasted funny, and screwed up my nose. I think they gave up on me then, coz they all went back to their conversations, with the occasional glance at me.
So here I am in Sukothai. What a lovely place the old city was. I was there yesterday, and cycled around - without the use of my map which I couldn't read - for about 2 hours. Yep, me on a bike, I can tell you that it was a white knuckled ride with memories of my last stack clearly in my mind. But thankfully these ruined cities don't have too much traffic and I was able to get about with barely an obstacle!
So I rode around, quite a pleasant day. Saw all of the main city, and then decided to check out the other parts, outside of the city walls. I got hopelessly lost! I rode around in circles - found an operating monastry, another temple that I didn't know existed, and I don't think was on my map, and also found the old kiln sites - which was a bit of a windfall as I was wanting to see those before I became really frustrated about not knowing where I was.
Anyway, there is one temple, the main Oooh La La temple, that I couldn't find. Wat Si Cham, or something like that. I gave up in the end, content to find my way home again.
So I did actually make it back to New Sukothai in one piece, rested for the rest of the afternoon, met my new room mate a Japanese guy - and played solitare, obviously by myself. Also met a French guy, who restored my faith in the french people, he being the first that I have met that was really nice, and not at all arrogant.... Maybe he wasn't REALLY french - Ha ha, just kiddin'.

Today I took myself off to Kamphaeng Phet, which is another ruined city, but I liked this one much better. Sukothai is a ruined city that has been spruced up and fixed here and there, so you don't need to much imagination to see what it WAS like, but then there is no feeling of being lost in time, or that you are looking in on another place far removed from today.

Anyway this place today (Kamphaeng Phet) had all that - and more! It was like stepping into another world - completely quiet, and almost part of nature again. The paths were being reclaimed by the creeping fingers of vines that were crawling across the ground, the temples, chedis, and buddahs all had such a feeling of peace, and felt as though they were still in the era that they were built. All you could hear when you were walking around was the thwack thwack of your own flip-flops, accompanied by the soft sound of the insects (which I might ad have had an absolute feed on me, I have bites EVERYWHERE, and I do mean - EVERYWHERE!) It was absolutely amazing - loved it - SUWAI MAK!
So that took the best part of today. After here I need to go back to my guesthouse and start with the dreaded tasks - washing (by hand of course!) and packing the ol' back pack yet again. Whoever invents the self packing pack is bound to make a mint!

Thailand, Thailand, Thailand....
The country where I want to be!
Either trekking or camping, or just watching TV
Thailand, Thailand, Thailand....
Thailand is for me

OK Enough Monty Python eh? But still it is soo nice to be back. Here it's so much easier to get around than compared to Vietnam. Still Vietnam did have some beautiful, amazing and wonderful points. But I do like it here - and Cambodia - a lot better!

So what've I been up to since my arrival? Finding a place to stay was a bit of a chase, I got a taxi from the airport (I know I know, extravigant, and possibly unnecessary) and told them I wanted to stay at Bonny's guesthouse - somewhere I picked from the lonely plonker due to the dorm rooms and cheaper rates than My House. We drove around for about 2 hours - at lead\st the air con was on and working though.... Looking, looking, looking, could not find it anywhere. In the end I ended up getting outta the taxi, giving him my Krup Kum Ma Ka, and heading off down the Ko San Rd in search of diggs. Found a cheapish single room at Prakorbs House - sounds like an indian owned place, but nup! All Thais.

After checking in there I decided to go in search of the elusive Bonny's Guesthouse, just incase it was tucked away somewhere you couldn't get to by taxi, or with a rucksack on your back. But still no luck, maybe it's like a magic shop in a Terry pratchet novel? Who know's? All I know is if you can't find it they mustn't do very good business..

The first full day here I got all my boring stuff outta the way. Posted a load of stuff home - I am going to have soo many presents for me, from me, when I get back to Aus - another reason to go back at some stage, plus I've got all my family Christmas shopping done and it should arrive in time. Checked out visas, and was quoted by one TAT 7050 for an Indian and epal visa - that works out at about 250 Aussioe dollars! So I said 'Bang Bang!' and left. Since then I have found out I can get my nepal visa at the airport in kathmandu for about US$15, and I will organise my India one from there.

On Tuesday I plan to head north to Sukothai - the original capital, from the 13th centuray. Will spend a little over a week there as there are also a few national parks and sanctuaries in the area as well that I want to take a squiz at. Also seeing that i will be knoda close to Mae Sot, I will cross the boarder into Myanmar, or not quite, and back to Thailand in order to get my visa for here extended. That means I don't need to fill out any forms, I only cross over and then straight back, don't need to go all the way into Myanmar, and it costs me nadda radda than 500baht. Easy peasy! Japanesey, lemon squeezy, dirty kneesy, have a sneezy!

Today I checked out the National museum, which is bloody enormous. Heaps of interesting things from artifacts that date back about 4500 years ago, art works like sculpture, paintings, decorative plates 'n' stuff. Also there are a few theories on where the Thai people come from, only to be concluded that they come from Thailand, always have and always will.... Kinda strange that they questioned it... Ha ha. Still good to know that they know where they're at! he buildings - about 5 in all, are surrounded by lovely gardens, manicured trees and lawns, and sweet smelling flowers.

Am quite enjoying travelling by myself - the first time since I stepped off the plan in Bangkok all the way back in June. Took a bit of getting used to after Sinead left for Aus, but now I am enjoying the extra freedom. Still travelling with Sinead was good to, I have made a close friend - in really such a short space of time, and will definitely catch up with her again in the future somwehere.

Met a cool german chick the other night, who told me all about Sukothai, which she'd just gotten back from. Chatted with her for hours over a few beers, talked about everything from travel to politics to the meaning of life, destiny and everything. She headed up to Kanchaniburri the next day, hopefully she won't be eaten by tigers. But before we parted ways, did the old email swap, and I will definitely go visit her if I am ever in Dusseldorf! So although I am on my own, there is always someone around to share a beer with and have a chat and a laugh!

Life is all good!

Where was I up to? I think I have blogged about the lovely Ha Long Bay - where the dragon went down to help fight the enemy...

So it's only the last few days that I need to catch you up on. Let me see... Sinead left for Bangkok on Monday morning and it was a little sadder to see her go that I'd expected. Still it looks like I will be meeting her again shortly as I am off back to Bangkok on Thursday morning - thank goodness I have had enough of Vietnam. Plus she left her new shoes in my bag so I need to get them back to her.

The Monday was reasonably quiet, I changed hotels to a place that has dorm rooms - my first dorm experience so far, and it's not that bad - pretty much as I expected really. Although it's a shared sex dorm... But that doesn't really make a hell of a lot of difference, it's not as though you're about to walk around naked either way.

I booked my ticket to Bangkok, sorted out my cash, had a walk around the lake and generally chilled by myself. Am starting to appreciate the time to myself.

Still after saying that I did catch up with Sebatian the German guy we met in Nha Trang for dinner, and made plans with him for today to do some touristy things together. Plus he owed me a beer and wanted a haircut as he doesn't trust the Vietnamese to do it the way he wants...

So I went around to his this morning and trimmed him up - sweat my arse off the whole time as it is baking here, not as humid as some places but still damn hot. We were out on the porch right in the sun... Urrgh very warm and sweaty.

After that we took a moto to the Fine Arts museum in Hanoi - really nice sculpture, so glad I went. Wasn't as impressed with the paintings, although there were a few good'uns that stood out to me. Spent a good few hours there looking around. They had stuff dating back over 3000 years, pottery, weapons etc. And of course things right up to this modern day. Really enjoyed that, the sculpture especially.

After that we walked to the botanical gardens here, which I'm sorry to say, are a bit naff. The small forest was pretty good, but there wasn't really much to them and I dunno, maybe I expect too much sometimes?

After that it was lunch and a lie down.

More people have moved into the dorm today, noisy boys! But after tomorrow night I will be outta there, and Vietnam. Wish I could be sooner, but due to visas etc, and meeting up with Mark, was better for me to stay an extra few days. Won't have much to write for a while as have to go about the boring things - develop film, get batteries, pack etc... Nothing really worth writing about.

Ha Long bay was gorgeous, and aside from the rain we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves! The bus trip there was pretty much like all other bus trips have been on - couldn't sleep, or get comfortable, and prayed for it to be over about an hour after boarding. But we arrived safely, and unlike some other people we've met, arrived crash free!!

After having our lunch at a crazy little Vietnamese restaurant in Ha Long city we were off to the pier, on foot. A 40 minute walk while everyone else passed us by on the air con busses!! Ah well, free exercise, and a chance to have a look along the beach there.

We finally got to the pier and waited another 1/2 hour for the guide to get our tickets and board the boat.... People were getting shitty everywhere, and to make matters worse, we were surrounded by god damn Americans!! Ha ha. Still we did actually get to the boat, and we may have been 2 hours behind schedule, and it looking like rain, but we were finally on our way!! Yay for us. The whole way through the walk to the pier I had some Mexican guy - Omar - trying to pick me up. I mentioned that I was meeting a boyfriend in a few weeks to get him off my case, by as Sinead says - 'God loves a tryer!'

The bay is gorgeous, dotted with over 2000 islets that stand out of the water like the tops of mountains. The boat weaves it's way through the islands and after a few hours you arrive at some caves. Can't remember the names of them, but they're pretty. We jumped off the boat onto a rickety pier, and proceeded down the path to steps going up the side of one of the islands.

After climbing to the top, the stairs entered the island so that you were actually inside there, surrounded by stalactites and mites. We walked through a number of different caves. Two of the American girls freaked out because of claustrophobia and shouted at the guide and then left... Ha ha, was good for a laugh.

After the caves we got back on the boat and I fell asleep reasonably soon after. We'd been woken up REALLY early that morning (Saturday morning mind you!!) by Section 4 government radio. Which starts at about quarter to 6, and goes until about 7 or so. It was some Vietnamese guy reading communist propaganda and playing music for the people who start work early, and for those that don't??? Well why aren't we out there working for the rise of communism? Huh, what's with us wanting to sleep in on a Saturday morning??!

So I missed a lot of the islands that we sailed past as I was snoozing on deck. We arrived at Cat Ba island and let off the people that had elected to sleep in a hotel there, we had decided to sleep on the boat. The we sailed to a little bay around the corner and put down the anchor for the night. Then it was time for dinner, more rice and stuff, and a few beers as we watched the moon rise overhead.

After dinner we went night swimming, and yes it was a quiet night, but a lotta fun. At about 11or so I was completely shagged and went onto the deck of the other boat to sleep. Omar was still doing his best, but thankfully he was sleeping on the other boat - thank God for small mercies!! After dozing for a while Sinead came by and said I should head to the cabin to avoid being eaten alive by the mozzies. I took her advice, and am glad that I did as it pissed with rain in the early hours of the morning.

Next morning it was back to the pier for lunch and then back on the bus to Hanoi. Wasn't a bad time, glad I went, but wish the sun had've come with us, and not the Mexican.

So Hanoi, still here and haven't been run over just yet, although I have come close a few times. The streets are mad, and each time you need to get to the other side of the road you are taking your life into your own hands.

On the first day here I was walking around like a zombie, so tired from the bus ride. But still I managed to get my arse to the Ngoc Son Temple that sits in the middle of a lake, and as legend says, is where fairies and spirits come to sing and dance.

After that though and grabbing something recognizable to eat, it was back to the hotel and sleep - glorious sleep.

Yesterday we walked about the city and found ourselves CD shopping. Got 6 of the little buggers for only $4.50. Not bad - especially if they all work! Also found a good place for dinner which we're off to tonight in order to celebrate my oldness (28 today!!) and to try out our new fancy pants (and other clothes).

After tiring ourselves out with the hard work of walking around the city and having lunch, we went back to the hotel for a quick costume change for the evenings entertainment - WATER PUPPETS!! We went to the early showing at 6.30pm. It was one of the best things I have done so far in Vietnam. The show was excellent, although we couldn't understand a word of what was going on, it didn't matter. Sinead, Sebastian and I sat there full of wonder for well over an hour like children at their first pantomime. The puppets, the puppeteers, and the traditional musicians were soo damn good. I can't say enough how much I enjoyed it.

On our way out Sinead - god bless her kind heart - bought me a water puppet (a fairy one) for my birthday!!  It's a night that I will remember well after I have forgotten my own name.

For dinner we went top a place called the cyclo bar. Not bad, but not that great though. We'd caught up with some other guys - Ramon and Gareth who we'd met on the Mekong Delta tour and bumped into  a few times since then as we've traveled north. After dinner we decided to start birthday celebrations early and head off to the funky monkey, which is the only place in town open after 12 at night. It wasn't bad there, good laughs with our new friends and a few pints of Carlsberg always makes things a bit happier.

At midnight Ramona, Gareth, Sebastian and Sinead decided to try and embarrass me by singing happy birthday in the middle of the bar. Didn't work, but it did bring over a group of young English public school kids. They were holidaying on Daddy's money with their school and supposed to be seeing the world on a set bugget. But they had extra cash from their family so that they could also get in some under age drinking, and general wankery. I have never met such arrogant arseholes in my life. The attitudes they had towards the people here, the 12 year old prostitutes in Cambodia, the utter disregard for anyone, including themselves made me so god damn angry that I had to leave. I ranted to Sinead the whole wat home about it, and all she could do was agree.... Ahh, still makes my blood boil to think of it.

Today we've had a bit of a lazy day hanging about the city, and the lake. Tomorrow we are off to Ha Long Bay for two days, spend the night on a boat swim at midnight, and then back to Hanoi the following evening.

Sinead flys back to Bangkok on Monday, and I will hang about here until Thursday or Friday, get in some sight seeing and stuff on my own. Am looking forward to the solitude, but it's been great traveling with her, and we will definitely catch up when I too get to Bangkok again.

Hanoi.... Beautiful - I think although I've only been here for about 3 or so hours, and two of that has been spent arguing with our bus driver...

What a ride! We left Hoian yesterday at about 2pm, another overnight bus - but at least this one had reclining seats. After 4 hours we arrived in Hue, a pretty city, but there was no time to stop. It was off that bus and onto another one that was to take us to here. We had the whole of the back seat to ourselves which was lerverly! Then we stopped for dinner at this roadside cafe/ Asian restaurant. I had my usual Noodle soup with beef - delicious and less than a buck!

Then it was back onto the bus... However it was back onto the bus with an extra 12 people. All the seats were filled, and then they took out deck chairs from the luggage racks so people could sit in the isles!! Fair enough we thought, we're going the same way as them, why not let than on? Only seems fair and right.

Less than an hour down the road and we stopped again. We thought there wasn't room, but these Asians are ingenious! Yet more people got on, we were well past full there were people sat everywhere and anywhere... And the roads although not anywhere near as bad as Cambodia, aren't that hot either.

I don't think we stopped again, but we may have, I finally fell asleep at some stage and then this morning saw the most beautiful sunrise at about 5.30ish am. I looked out the window and it was like someone had painted the sky with the most delicate colours of pink, blue and yellow. With the silhouette of the mountains and trees it was perfect, almost enough to make you cry. (or maybe that was just my reaction to being awake so early?)

I was dozing in and out of sleep for the next 3 hours as we slowly made our way to Hanoi, dropping off the Vietnamese we had picked up around at their various destinations near Hanoi. We pulled up next to a manky lake at about 8am (2 hours later than expected) and the bus driver got out and told us this was the end of the line. Now our tickets are sold to us with the proviso that we get picked up and dropped off at the hotel of our choice in the city we leave from and go to. No one knew where we were, and no one could tell us due to the language barrier. No one could believe that they were going to leave us in the middle of nowhere, by a manky little lake on a dirt road. So we got back into the bus and refused to budge, some people threatened to call the police, others the tour company, and others just that they weren't moving.

So eventually the people from CAMEL TOURS got back on the bus, and we thought we had won. They were finally going to take us to the lake district in the old city so we could finally go to a guest house, have a shower and a sleep. However I don't think we westerners fully understand the concept of 'face'. For them to bend even slightly to us meant they were losing face by giving into us lower class travelers.

The bus drove around for all of 5 minutes and we found ourselves outside a petrol station, still not in the vicinity of the lake district. We may be in a different country, we may not speak the language, but we CAN still read addresses of places and maps!! So we spoke with the police, who - quite handy really - were also at the petrol station filling up their patrol car. Would have been even more handy though had they spoken even one word of English, French or even Spanish!!! So no luck there.It got to a point where it was a stand off. We were wanting to get to a hotel, and the tour people were wanting us to just go and get fucked.

Eventually we realized that we weren't getting anywhere. I said to Sinead, lets just grab our bags and share a taxi with someone else who is willing to give in so that we can get to a hotel, shower and relax. She agreed and so we started to get off. It seemed to lead to a bit of a mass exodus, as everyone else also got off, and then started to aske Sinead and I what to do next....??? Like we knew!

So we ended up getting a cab after about 1&1/2 hours, maybe a little less, of this bus driver VS tourist debacle. Cost us 10,000 each, which is a rip, but at least we were off the fuckin' bus and on our way to somewhere cool, where we could gather our wits, calm down and shower. So that's my first experience of Hanoi. Not the best, but surely not the worst that could've happened to us either.

Vietnam has been a little like this all the way through, just little niggly things. So I think I will leave here around the 1st of the month and head back to Thailand for about 6 weeks before going to Nepal.

It's all good, all an experience, and that's one of the reasons you travel isn't it??

Plans are made to be broken, aren't they? We stopped in Hoian, 12 hours on a bus with no sleep, kinda meant we had to. But it was only going to be for a few days. Still, it was just a thought, and we didn't know how much we'd like this town until we stopped here.

It's soo much quieter than anywhere else we've been in Vietnam, and that's a welcome state after the madness we have seen.

I got some clothes made here, almost by accident. I went into a shop, intending to buy a apir of shorts, hopefully straight of the rack. 3 hours later I walked out after having ordered a pair of shorts (mission accomplished) a pair of jeans, a skirt, shirt and two other tops.... They were ready the next day!!! I couldn't believe it, in fact the shirt was ready for me about 2 hours after I ordered it.... I hope I was trading fairly, they got a good price from me, I didn't try to barter them down at all.

After there we took a stroll down the street looking for an ATM as we'd almost emptied our pockets at the cloth shop. In between there and the ATM, I also obtained a new pair of thongs, a pair of shoes (also made to order) and stopped for something to eat. This town just makes me want to spend!! Not good, but also kinda good. I have pretty much finished my Christmas shopping for my family, bought soo many things for myself, and still have enough cash left over to be going out on the piss....

Which brings me to last nights antics. Sinead, Damian and I decided to go out for some drinks, and possibly try the snake wine that we had seen everywhere in Vietnam - Basically it's about 5 snakes stuffed into a bottle with near to pure home made alcohol. Looks disgusting, but when in Vietnam, do as the Vietnamese do! Sinead doesn't drink, so she just came along for the entertainment.

We got ourselves a few gin and tonics, having not brought our insect repellent along, and this being the tastier option, and then discussed the possiblility of the snake wine.... After not much quibbling, Damian went out and got a medium bottle of the stuff, for a whole 50,000 dong, which I think translates to about $4.50. It sat there on the table for a while as we worked up the courage to actually drink it. Damian had tried a bigger bottle before when staying with a family in the Mekong Delta, and assured me that it was 'just like very strong tequila'..... Yeah right.

So we poured ourselves some, maybe 2 shots worth in a scotch glass, and knocked it back as quickly as we could. Uuuurrrrrgh! it was the most disgusting thing I have every tried, and I deserve a huge pat on the back for not hurling on the spot. The alcohol was soo strong, but that wasn't the bad bit. You could taste the preserved snake, which was like MUSTY RABBIT, and the smell and taste lingered behind your nasal cavity for ages. I immediately downed the rest of my beer, lit a cigarette half expecting that I'd blow up from the alcohol fumes, all in the hope that I'd be able to get the taste outta my mouth and nose.

It was rank, Sinead almost chucked just from the smell when we downed it and the fact that there was 5 snakes staring at her from a bottle.... Damian attempted to have some more with coke, but it TURNED THE COKE GREEN, and we convinced him it wasn't a good idea unless he wanted to spend the night speaking with Huey.

After that place closed, Sinead went back to the hotel, but Damian and I kicked on to the full moon bar, which is in the middle of nowhere. We were there first westerners to arrive, and it being so far away from town, we were more than a little worried that we'd been coerced into going somewhere that we really shouldn't have. But after about an hour more people arrived, I was asked to work behind the bar for free drinks - so I did - and the night passed reasonably quickly and uneventfully for the most part. I did have a local guy trying to pick me up telling me that he loved me and I was very beautiful. Ha ha... But I told him Damian was my husband, and he played along with that for all of 15 minutes and then tried to sell me to him for a $100. Cheers mate!

By the time we left there we'd spent nearly all our cash on booze, so had to walk home. We got nearly 1/2 way which was the point when the cash we did have left was enough to pay for a moto for the rest of the way home. Arrived home at 4am with an empty purse, and collapsed in my bed. Sleep at last!

Point to remember - when catching a night bus, ensure that the seats recline!!

The trip here to Hoian was hard - harder than travelling in Cambodia, harder than the trip from Ko Phangan to Siem Reap, HARDER THAN STONE!! I slept for all of 1/2 an hour for the whole of the 13 hour journey. And watching the driver and the roads at night is even worse than during the day. Driving here is like playing chicken where ever you go. You have one hand almost constantly on the horn, and it seems that small has to give way to big, when at intersections, passing on tight corners, or even on the straight freeway when you can see for miles ahead.

I think if your horn broke here you'd have to take your car off the road, or certain death would be waiting for you.

We're staying here for a few days. Apparently the beach is better than Nha Trag, the clothes shopping brilliant and there is a national park that I want to have a look at as well. First port of call for today though is to find a nice bar and a good cheap restaurant. Not too much of a mission, but a worthwhile one all the same.

Hope everyone is well, and if you've been reading this and not emailed me yet, press the 'contact me NOW' link at the top right hand corner of you screen and give me a hello!! You lazy bastards!!